Our guest was the 2009 XXL Big Wave Paddle In Award winner, a former big wave charger and now turned photographer, Derek Dunfee. Derek is a lifelong surfer raised on the reefs of La Jolla, California, who went on to travel the world and chase swells, becoming one of the most respected big wave surfers on the planet. At present day he's reached a comfort level in heavy conditions that allows him to take his camera into scenarios most could never imagine. Dunfee's images take you right into the heart of some of the ocean's most powerful moments. It's this Unique perspective that makes his imagery so remarkable, and ultimately timeless.
He has recently launched his second book, Waking up in the Sea, where he goes into detail about surfing and chasing big waves. But also opens up about how the concussions and trauma he suffered from big wave surfing impacts him in his everyday life.

Swell Season Surf Radio is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is distributed by WAX.Radio